Da Dong NYC savaged by The New York Times

'It dawned on me that I had paid $98 for a duck with almost no flavor'

The title 'Beijing's best Peking duck' isn't bestowed lightly by Beijingers – after all, despite its southern origins, the capital went on to name the dish after itself (presumably because some enterprising officials wanted to call dibs). It's a title that engenders reverence and majesty, conjuring images of centuries of tradition and culinary mastery.

When asking locals which Beijing establishment is responsible for the best kaoya, certain names always seem to get thrown around. Quanjude is one, Da Dong another. So when we heard that the Beijing institution had opened up a branch in New York City back in January, we were more than interested to hear how it was faring across the pond.

Turns out, not so well.

In a review posted by The New York Times' Pete Wells on Tuesday, Da Dong's latest branch was awarded a grand total of zero stars for what was deemed only a 'satisfactory' performance (one star is considered good, two stars very good, three stars excellent, four stars extraordinary). Though initial reports of the duck skin were positive ('None of us had seen crisper skin – you could bounce a quarter off it'), the duck meat itself would prove less than impressive.

        'The meat didn't make as firm an impression. It made very little impres    sion at all, apart from my strong sense that there ought to be more of it. Tasted on its own, it reminded me a bit of the lean, whitish, noncommittal supermarket pork chops I grew up on. Slowly, gradually, with great mental resistance but still inexorably, it dawned on me that I had paid $98 for a duck with almost no flavor.

      It was dry too.'

Da Dong's duck was also not the only dish which received a thumbs down, with the Kung Pao shrimp described as tasting 'like ketchup', and the sweet-and-sour pork ribs 'as sweet as if they'd been stewed in Dr. Pepper.' On the plus side, the wine and dessert menus were touted as high points, which certainly separates it from other Chinese restaurants.

Da Dong's Kung Pao shrimp.

In response to the review, readers' comments seemed largely divided between those who'd visited Da Dong in Beijing – and believed it to be overhyped – and those who believed it to be exceptional. (There were also those who were of the opinion that Peking duck as a whole is overrated, but c'mon). Common shout outs for Peking duck restaurant recommendations in the comments also included Quanjude and Duck de Chine.

Though particularly scathing, The New York Times is not the only publication to give Da Dong's NYC branch a less than stellar review. New York Magazine’s Adam Platt also awarded the eatery zero stars back in January, citing the cost as one of the main points of contention. At 98 USD per duck (equivalent to 620RMB), Da Dong's New York City branch is charging peckish patrons 322RMB more than what we're forking over here in Beijing. Holy duck.

With 16 branches established around China already, Da Dong is a veritable duck dynasty (not to be confused with the Louisianan version). However, before continuing any plans for global domination, perhaps it should get all its ducks in a row first.

For the best Peking duck restaurants in Beijing, hit 'Read more'.

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